Sangana nemakemikari ekugadzira akazvipira kusimudzira chokwadi nezve skincare pa Instagram

Wakambozvibvunza here kuti ndiani ane basa rekugadzira mafomula ako favourite skin care products? Mhinduro ndeye masayendisiti, kunyanya cosmetic chemist. Kugadzira resipi yakakwana isainzi iyo Esther Olu (aka The Melanin Chemist) ane shungu. Formula kubva kuCalifornia yakagadzira vateveri vesocial media kupa vanhu ruzivo rwebasa iri rinogara richichinja uye debunking ingredient ngano nekunakidzwa uye inodzidzisa infographics. Munguva pfupi yapfuura takava nemukana wekutaura naye uye kudzidza zvakawanda nezveiri basa rinofadza. Wana zvazvinoreva chaizvo kuva nyanzvi yekemisitiri uye nei Olu achiona zvichikosha kugovera zivo yake yesayenzi nevateveri vake. 

Saka, zvinhu zvekutanga kutanga, chii chaizvo chinoita cosmetic chemist? 

Cosmetologists vari kushanda kuti vaone kuti ndezvipi zvinoshandiswa zvinogona kusanganiswa kugadzira zvimwe zvigadzirwa. Ini ndinobatsira kugadzira zvigadzirwa kubva kuganda kusvika kune ruvara uye kuchengetwa kwebvudzi. Wazvipa zita, ndiri kushanda nazvo. Isu tinogara tichiuya nemabikirwo akasiyana-siyana tichishandisa chemistry uye ruzivo rwedu kuti tivandudze uye pakupedzisira tiite kuti chigadzirwa chakanakisisa chiwanikwe.

Chii chakakukurudzira kuti uve cosmetic chemist? Wagara uchikwezvwa pakuchengetwa kweganda uye runako here?

Handina kugara ndakanyura murunako. Kutaura chokwadi, kufarira kwangu hakuna kutanga kutozosvikira ndaenda kukoreji. Ndanga ndichibvunza rudzi rwekuchengetedza ganda, ndichingokurudzira vanhu kushandisa imwe moisturizer. Kushanda nemhando iyi yaive nguva yekutsanangura kwandiri. Ndakabva ndawedzera kufarira runako. Saka, pandakanga ndava kuda kupedza chikoro, ndakaziva kuti ndakanga ndisingadi kuenda nenzira yechinyakare muchikoro chemishonga, ndaida kuita chimwe chinhu. 

Mune chemistry yepamusoro, unoita yakawanda organic chemistry - neimwe nzira, yakafanana nereverse engineering - uye ndaida kuziva kuti zvandiri kudzidza zvinogona kushandiswa sei kune runako. Mushure meimwe googling, ndakadzidza nezve cosmetic chemistry uye yasara inhoroondo.

Ndeipi chikamu chakaomesesa chekuva mugadziri wezvizorwa?

Zvinondishungurudza kana maformula angu atadza uye handizive kuti dambudziko nderei nekuti ndinofanira kugara ndichigadzira fomula imwe chete ndoigadzirisa zvishoma kuti ndione kuti chii chiri kukonzera dambudziko. Zvinogona kuva pfungwa dzinopedza simba nekuti ndinotanga kufunga kuti ndiri kuita chimwe chinhu chakaipa, asi chaizvo iyo formula pachayo haishande. Asi kana ndangonzwisisa kuti dambudziko nderei, zvinobatsira uye imwe yemanzwiro akanakisa.

Ona iyi post pa Instagram

A post yakagovaniswa naEsther Olu (@themelaninchemist)

Zvinotora nguva yakareba sei kugadzira formula yekuchengeta ganda kubva pakatanga?

Inenge gore, asi zvinogona kutora nguva yakareba. Kubva papfungwa kusvika pakuvamba, ndingati gore rimwe kusvika maviri. 

Iwe unowanzo pfuura mana kana mashanu iteration kusvika iwe uine fomula yakakwana?

Ehe! Dzimwe nguva zvakatonyanya, nekuti mubasa rangu razvino ndinoshanda nevatengi uye mabhureki. Ngatitii ndinofunga kuti mazwi akakwana, asi mutengi anoedza uye haazvifarire. Ndinofanira kudzokera kubhodhi rekudhirowa uye ndinogara ndichigadzirisa kusvikira vafara nemugumisiro. Pane imwe nguva ini ndakagadzirisa chimwe chinhu kanopfuura ka20 - zvese zvakazorora pakuti mutengi aigutsikana nefomula. 

Ndezvipi zvinhu zvaunofarira kushanda nazvo zvakanyanya?

Ini ndinoda glycerin nekuti chinhu chiri nyore kwazvo chinogona kushandiswa kune zvakasiyana siyana. Haisi chete yakanakisa humectant, asi zvakare inoita kuti resipi ive nyore kugadzirira. Semuenzaniso, kana ndiri kunetseka kusanganisa zvinhu, glycerin ichabatsira kuita kuti zvive nyore. Iniwo ndinoda manyorerwo azvinoita ganda rangu. Ndinofunga kuti ichi chinogona kunge chiri chinhu chandinofarira kushanda nacho. Ndinonakidzwawo nekushanda nemaester [rudzi rwe emollient] nekuda kwemabatiro aanoita ganda. Iwo zvakare akasiyana-siyana: unogona kushandisa esters kugadzira makeup uye ganda rekuchengetedza maumbirwo.

Ndedzipi dzimwe pfungwa dzisiridzo dzaunonzwa pamusoro perunako kana zvigadzirwa? 

Ndinonzwa kuti kana zvasvika pakuchengetwa kweganda, vanhu vanofunga kuti pane nguva dzose mhinduro yakarurama kana isina kururama. Kuchengetwa kweganda hakumbofi kwakasviba kana kuchena - pachagara paine grey nzvimbo. Nekudaro, hakuna vazhinji vesainzi vanotaurirana paInternet vanogona kubvisa pfungwa dzisiridzo. Iyo yakajairika, semuenzaniso, inosanganiswa ne sulfates: vanhu vanofunga kuti kana iyo yakagadzirwa ine sulfates, inongobvisa ganda kana bvudzi. Saizvozvowo, kana ukashandisa chimwe chinhu ne glycolic acid, inogona kupisa ganda rako. Chinhu chakadaro. Ichi ndicho chikonzero maumbirwo akakosha kana tichifunga nezve zvigadzirwa zvatinoshandisa.

Iwe unoshandisa sei ako masocial media mapuratifomu kuparadzira ruzivo nezve cosmetic chemistry uye kuzivisa vanhu nezve eingredient zvisiri izvo?

Ini ndinoda kugadzira infographics. Ndinonzwa sokuti zviratidzo zvinoonekwa zvinobatsira zvikuru, uye mumaonero angu zviri nyore kuti mumwe munhu aone dhayagiramu pane kungonyora chete nokuti vachave vakafanana, "Uri kutaura nezvei?" Iniwo ndinofarira kugadzira mavhidhiyo nekuti ndinofunga kuti kana vanhu vaona zvandinoita nezvandinotaura nezvazvo, zvinovaitira nyore. Zvakare, havasi vese vanogona kuona zviri kuitika kuseri kwezviitiko kana zvasvika kune cosmetic chemistry sezvo iyo indasitiri idiki. Ndiko kusaka ndichifarira kuvatarisa kubva mukati. Ini ndinoda kuve neruzivo uye kurerutsa zvinhu uye zvakare kuita kuti vanhu vaseke kuti vatore zvinhu zviri nyore. 

Ona iyi post pa Instagram

A post yakagovaniswa naEsther Olu (@themelaninchemist)

Sei zvakakosha kuti iwe uchinje rondedzero inotenderedza pfungwa dzisiridzo idzi?

Zvinouya pakuisa kutya. Ndinofunga nezvedenda uye kuti kutya kwakatonga sei kufunga kwevanhu kwemakore maviri. Kutya uku kunoitikawo nemidziyo yekuchengetedza ganda. Zvasvika padanho rekuti vanhu vanofunga chimwe chinhu chakapusa senge moisturizer chinovauraya nekuda kwechinhu chimwe chete. Kuchengetwa kweganda kunofanira kunakidza. Ndosaka ndichida kugadzirisa mafungiro edu tichishandisa sainzi, nekuti iripo nechikonzero. Ndinofunga kutaura chokwadi kunobatsira vanhu kunakidzwa nezvinhu uye kunzwa kurerukirwa pamusoro pazvo.

Indasitiri yerunako yakazara ine nhoroondo yekusanyanya kusanganisa. Mumakore achangopfuura, takaona shanduko kubva pamaonero emutengi: mithunzi yakawanda yakasiyana-siyana uye zvimwe zvigadzirwa zvakagadzirirwa ganda re melanized, asi ndeapi maitiro eindastiri maererano nekuumbwa?

Ndinofunga kuti tafambira mberi, asi ndinonzwa sokuti tichiri kurasikirwa nechimwe chinhu. Parizvino ndini ndega African American mukambani yangu yese, uye zvaive zvakafanana pakambani yangu yapfuura. Zvainakidza chaizvo kuti iyo Black Lives Matter kufamba yakachinja nyaya zvishoma, asi kwenguva pfupi. Brands nemakambani vakati vachaita shanduko nekuunza vanhu vazhinji veruvara munharaunda yemakambani, asi tsika iyi yaiita senge yakagara mwedzi mishoma yobva yadzika. Ndinonzwa sekunge vanhu vari kushandisa [Black Lives Matter] sechimiro, kwete nekuti vane hanya chaizvo nezve shanduko kana kubatanidzwa. 

Chandinoonawo chinonakidza ndechekuti Generation Z uye kunyangwe mireniyumu havanzwisise izvi. Tinoda kuona kusanganisirwa, uye tave kutanga kusvika kune mabhurendi kazhinji tichibvunza zvinhu zvakaita se "sei mumvuri wechigadzirwa ichi wakaganhurwa kudaro?" zvichingoenda zvakadaro. Indasitiri yezvizorwa yatove idiki, asi isu tinoda vanhu vazhinji vemavara mumunda kuti varatidze kumiririra kwakawanda. Tarisa pane sunscreen - isu tinoziva kuti mineral sunscreens inowanzosiya yakacheneruka tint pane yakasviba ganda. Tinoda vanhu vazhinji vemavara kuti vashande muchikamu chezuva kuitira kuti maumbirwo aya avandudzwe. Saka hongu, ndinonzwa sekunge tafambira mberi, asi isu tinoda kufambira mberi, kufambira mberi kunoenderana.

Ndeapi matanho anofanirwa kutorwa kusiyanisa munda wecosmetic chemistry?

Kune zvakawanda zvirambidzo zvakaisirwa vanhu vane ruvara uye vakadzi kana zvasvika kune STEM mune zvese. Ndinofunga kuti zvakawanda zvinodikanwa - kuburikidza nedzidzo nemakambani makuru - kuratidza kuti vari kuisa mari muSTEM yevakadzi. Semuenzaniso, Sosaiti yeCosmetic Chemists inopa Madame CJ Walker Scholarship kune vashoma vanomiririrwa. Dzidzo haingobatsiri kubhadhara mari yechikoro, asiwo inosimbisa zvavakawana, izvo zvinopa vanogamuchira kubatana mumakambani makuru. Tinoda zvimwe zveizvi uye ndinofunga kuti zvinofanirwa kutanga nemakambani makuru. Makambani anofanirwa kuisa mari mukusvitsa uye kusimudzira ruzivo rwekukosha kweSTEM. Kuziva kuchaita zvazvinoita. 

Nezve cosmetic chemistry kunyanya, ndinoda mahombe ecosmetic conglomerates kuparadzira izwi nekugadzira mavhidhiyo kuratidza kuti cosmetic chemistry chii uye kuita kuti vanhu vafarire. Vamwe vevandinoshanda navo vari kutumira mavhidhiyo akadai pasocial media uye vanhu vari kufarira zvakanyanya, saka ndinofunga kubuda muchiitiko chakakura kuchaita kuti vanhu vataure. Zvemagariro enhau zvine chekuita nehupenyu hwedu, saka kana vanhu vazhinji vanobatanidzwa mucosmetic chemistry vakaishandisa senzira yedzidzo nekuziva, zvinozoita kuti vanhu vataure uye vagoita kufarira mumunda.  

Nderipi zano raungapa kune mumwe munhu anoda kuita basa mucosmetic chemistry?

Gara wakavhurika pakudzidza nekuti sainzi inogara ichishanduka. Kune akawanda zvikamu zvekemikari yezvizorwa, kusanganisira sunscreen, cosmetics uye zvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda, saka ini ndinopa zano kuti urege kuzviganhurira kune imwe nekuti unogona kudzidza zvakawanda. Chinonyanya kukosha, usatya kufoira nekuti pane imwe nguva unozofoira formula. Kushingirira ndiko kunokosha. Ini ndinofunga kukundikana chinhu chikuru kudzidza kubva uye kune mubairo kupfuura chero chinhu kana iwe uchidzidza kubva mukukundikana.

Ndechipi chaunofarira runako chigadzirwa chenguva dzese?

Chigadzirwa changu chekuchengetedza ganda izvozvi Sachi Skin Ursolic Acid & Retinal Overnight Reform. Inodhura chaizvo asi inobatsira nehuswa hwangu uye ndinofunga kuti yakakosha. 

Ndeipi yaunofarira runako maitiro izvozvi?

Ini ndinoda kuti indasitiri iri kubhadhara zvakanyanya kugadzirisa fenzi. Zvinoita kwandiri kuti mugore rapfuura vanhu vakatanga kukoshesa kuchengetwa kweganda, asi vaisanyatsonzwisisa zvavaiita. Saka vanhu vazhinji vakaedza neexfoliation, asi dzimwe nguva zvakanyanya uye zvinopedzisira zvave kutyora zvipingamupinyi zveganda ravo. Iye zvino, nyanzvi dzakawanda dziri kuenda paIndaneti kuti dzitaure pamusoro pekukosha kwechivharo cheganda uye kuratidza vanhu kuti vangachengetedza sei ganda ravo zvakanaka, sekusashandisa zvinhu zvakawanda zvinoshanda panguva imwe chete. Saka ndinofunga kuti zvakanaka.

Chii chaunonyanya kutarisira muna 2022?

Ndiri kufarira kuona kuti nzvimbo yekuchengeta ganda iri kuenda kupi nekuti microbiome skin care inofungidzirwa kuti idanho rakakura. Ndakagadzirirawo kudzidza zvakawanda mubasa rangu.